We're quite the celebrities here at the Royal University of Bhutan, where we've been staying for the past 10 days.  We're hanging out, eating, and living with students.  It has really been interesting to not only see the cultural differences here, but the differences in administration and education systems too.  We've been interviewed by almost all media sources in the country and we've been swamped with requests for dates too!  It has been really hilarious. We're also wearing the traditional Bhutanese dress (ghos for men and khiras for women).  I think my lower ribs are getting smaller due to these tight belts we have to wear everyday!
 
Check out these links:
 
Kuensel Newspaper (I was interviewed and mentioned in an article)
Jacqueline Bovaird (this is a friend who's on the program with us.  she's a photo student at NYU.  keep checking out her photos of Dharamsala and Bhutan as she posts them)
 
Tomorrow we start to head back west again.  Friday-Sunday we're going to backpack through a mountain pass.
 
I've got to run and work on my research proposal (it was due this morning!). 
 
Love to you all, Carolyn

Bhutan has been amazing so far.  We flew into Paro and drove directly to Thimpu where we spent a few days. While there we met the Chief Justice of Bhutan, who is one of the key members in creating the constitution (which the country hopes to adopt in a few years).  We also met young people who have started up the first radio, newspaper, and television programs in the country.  We've been really well treated and the government has been extremely hospitable.  In fact, because of our group's connections with the government, we have permits to enter sacred sites most Western tourists don't have access to and we also are exempt from the over $200 a day fee that Westerners must pay to be in the country.  After our few days in Thimpu we drove all day one day to Punahka where we were able to enter the ancient and holy dzong.  Inside there were gold statues reaching hundreds of feet in the air and intricate paintings outlining the Buddha's life story.  After one night in Punahka, we spent 10 hours on the road to get to Bumthang where we've been staying the past few days (more specifically, Jakar).  It is a beautiful farming community nestled in four valleys connected by a deep blue river that runs down from the glaciers.  While here, we've been living in farm houses with locals outside of town.  I've planted potatoes in the fields with my family and yesterday morning, I helped milk cows.  This valley is the most breathtaking and gorgeous place!  We've been getting to understand the local political, education, health care, and social systems as best we can.  In Bhutan, when men and women marry, there is no ceremony or party.  The man simply moves into the woman's home (It is a matrilocal society, where woman inherit the property).  Marriage is very fluid and it is normal for partners to separate and form new relationships without any social stigma.
 
On another note, my initial research proposal has been excepted for April and May!  I'll be in Dharamsala and another Tibetan settlement (TBD) comparing changing marriage patterns.  I've still got lots of preparation to do though!
 
In a few days we start a two day drive, continuing east to Sherupste where we will live with local students studying at the university there.

Yesterday we got up really early, my Amala made me put on a chupa (tibetan dress) and we went to Namgyal Monastery.  We were all sent through metal detectors before being thoroughly padded down.  No cell phones, cameras, sharp objects, lighters, cigarettes, etc were allowed inside.  Then we all crowded around on the floor with monks, nuns, Tibetans, and western tourists.  The monks who live at that monastery passed out blessed Tibetan butter tea (salty) and sweet rice.  After much ceremony, a monk chanting (multiple notes at the same time), horns playing, and a procession, His Holiness the Dalai Lama emerged from the Temple.  He sat upon a high chair and proceeded to read a text, give a commentary, and talk till around noon.  His words were interesting, but what was most moving was to see how important his presence was to the Tibetans.  He spoke in Tibetan but there were translations being sent out in various languages on different FM stations.  So we all bought radios and listened to the English translation.  Indian army officers and members of His Holiness' personal guard had big old Russian guns and kept vigilant the entire three hours.  After the teachings ended His Holiness walked out on a red carpet, followed by the high lamas of his sect (gelupa) and the high members of parliament.  We happened to sit down right next to the carpet, so as he proceeded out, he passed right in front of us.  We had to remain on the ground, but he was only about a foot away from me.  A few friends and I didn't feel like pushing forward to touch him; we felt like it was more important that the Tibetans do so (it is a very holy blessing to touch him).  So we let a few of them in front of us and they weeped at his feet as he passed.  It was a really amazing experience.

On a lighter note, he's quite short and made lots of jokes during his speech!

The next few days we have lots of tests and papers due.  Tuesday night we are driving out of the mountains and taking a night train to Delhi.  Thursday we'll fly to Bhutan.